Hello, guys! A few weeks ago, I made a short post showing how the Nikon D850’s negative digitizer mode work. My iPhone’s video wasn’t working properly at that time that is why my accompanying video didn’t have any audio so people have to read my commentaries to get what’s happening. I would like to make it up to you so I went to Nikon’s office this afternoon and borrowed a Nikon D850 so I can show you how this feature works and this time I brought along with me a frame of C41 negative to use as a sample to help you guys see what’s really going on. There are many quirks on how this thing works and I really hope that this video will help shed some light on this feature.
Please forgive my speech, I have sore throat today that’s why I pause from time to time.
I hope that this video clarified many things to you. There are a couple of things that I will like to point out when I was making this video:
- Flash was unavailable to me while in the negative digitizer mode.
- The mode automatically defaults to aperture priority.
- You are unfortunately stuck with aperture priority mode.
- You cannot save to RAW.
- You can change the exposure compensation, that’s the only thing you can change.
- If you want a higher shutter speed, change the ISO.
I hope that this video helped clear things up and patch-up anything that’s missing from my previous one. I don’t know why the engineers decided to only make aperture priority as the only mode available to you when you’re on the negative digitizer mode. Like what I said in the video, it doesn’t make a lot of sense because there are lots of people who use flash guns to illuminate their negatives. I was wondering wether my decision to use the manual lens for this made the camera default to aperture priority but I went and looked for another Nikon D850 with one of the newer G lenses mounted on it and I still got the same thing. If anybody reading this knows what’s going on, please enlighten us and I will update this with your input. The Nikon personnel there was clueless as well since there’s nothing in the manual that mentioned anything about this. To be honest, this feature felt “rushed” to me so I hope that it will get an update in the future to improve it.
That’s it for now. I will be writing something within the week on how to use your current Nikon DSLR for doing something similar. It is much more flexible but it’ll take more time for you to digitize your negatives. Please come back to my blog and check if I published anything new! Thank you very much for supporting my blog, Ric.
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