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Repair: Zoom-Nikkor 80-200mm f4 Ai-S

Hello, everybody. I have published quite a lot in the past few days because I had the time to do them. I initially plan on publishing around one post a week but seeing that more and more people are following my technical notes, I decided to publish more. I will try to write around 2-3 posts a week if I can because these take time and being a family man means that I need to spend time with the people I care as well.

Introduction:

The subject of our lens mutilation on this blog post will be the legendary professional workhorse lens of the 1980’s – the Zoom-Nikkor 80-200mm f4 Ai-S.

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I got this lens for a really good price because the front elements were in a terrible state, the lens coatings have ugly bald spots and that is an indication of fungus damage. The helicoid and zoom mechanisms are still OK but felt dry and uneven.

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Repair: Lettering Restoration

Hello, on this post we are going to discuss how to restore faded or chipped paint on the engraved lettering on your cameras and lenses. This problem is pretty common amongst users and collectors of classic lenses as the lenses themselves are usually subject to poor handling and abuse by the previous owner and even if the owner was careful enough, the lenses themselves are pretty old and bright paint rarely retain their finish for that long unless they are very well kept and used very rarely.

Fortunately for us, the process is not difficult at all since I would just consider this to be a “spot” repair and you do not need to be a highly skilled craftsman to be able to do this but you do need to have some basic understanding of paints and materials to pull this off. The good thing about being a scale modeler (I quit in 1999) is that we are exposed to the same materials and skills used in restoring older lenses.

Actual cosmetic restoration requires more work such as stripping the metal parts to bare metal and repainting everything with an airbrush but we will not go that far in this post but I may do one in the future if I found a lens that is valuable enough to restore to that extent. I also have a baby at home and I do not want the fumes to affect the health of my family as well because lacquer fumes can get everybody high (glue sniffing as a hobby is not encouraged). More

Study: Diffraction on the 105mm VR

Hello, everybody. We are going to deviate from the classic Nikkors today and talk about a current production lens – the amazing Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G ED IF AF-S VR and the effects of diffraction on this lens. (picture from Nikon USA)

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Being primarily a bug photographer in the warmer months, this subject is something that I am very much inclined to look into myself so that I know where and when I should stop down. Stopping the aperture down too much is something that most of us bug shooters  are guilty of in the quest for better depth of field. More

Repair: Nikkor-S 50mm f/1.4

Hello, everybody! It is a cold morning here in Tokyo so I am not in the mood to go out or do anything outside my cozy room unless I have to. This gave me the time to spend with my daughter and wife as well as to update this blog.

Introduction:

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In this post I am going to share my repair notes for the Nikkor-S 50mm f/1.4. Before this got into my collection I have always hated Nikon’s 50mm f/1.4’s because of my previous experience with the 50mm f/1.4 AF-D. I have used that lens for years and frankly, it is a lens that I cannot use wide open.

The 50mm f/1.4G succeeded the previously mentioned lens and while it has fixed most of the optical problems of it’s predecessor, this lens has introduced a new problem into the Nikon 50mm f/1.4 family, mainly slow autofocusing and considering it’s price at that time I can say that it is not a lens with good value. More

Project: Ai Conversion

Hello, everybody. It has been awhile since I last updated the blog. I have been really busy balancing my time between work, family, leisure and learning. This post is important so I will try my best to illustrate and explain how to manually convert pre-Ai Nikkor lenses so that you can use them with Ai capable bodies and how to make it look like it was done by a professional despite the fact that you are going to do this mostly with common house hold tools and materials.

Introduction:

One of the reasons why I shot Nikon is because they stuck with the F-mount while other companies abandoned their respective original mounts each time there is a major change in lens technology. While this is good from the engineering point of view, it severed the compatibility between their older lens lineup and what they currently have and making the said legacy lenses useless for modern digital bodies (until the advent of mirrorless cameras). I once owned a Canon T60 and sold that camera in 2004 for small change for the simple reason that Canon’s older FD mount at that time was considered unsellable in my homecity. Having this in mind, my next camera purchase was a Nikon D60 and I never looked back. Choosing Nikon gave me the ability to use a roster of lenses from the late 1950’s up to the ones that are currently in production.

While it is true that Nikon did not change the lens mount since it’s debut, it did underwent some changes through the years that will inhibit the use of some lenses on some bodies. One such change is the mount got a bit wider (by 1mm-1.5) in the 1960’s and the change to Ai technology. Dpreview has made a great article on the Nikon F-mount and the different iterations made to it and I suggest that you read it to understand the issues surrounding it. Our main concern in this blog post is how to trim away material from the aperture ring of a pre-Ai lens so that it will not interfere or damage the Ai indexing tab of some of the higher end Nikon bodies (image from D600.org).

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Repair: Nikkor 85mm f/2 Ai-S

Hello, everybody! I wrote this article around a year ago and I just updated it now because I wasn’t adding any mini reviews and introductions back then so to make this article in line with our current standards, I am going to add those now. I will also do the same thing for my other articles when I have the time and I am in the mood. Enjoy my friends!

Introduction:

Today, I am going to show you the inner parts of the marvellous Nikkor 85mm f/2 Ai-S lens! I seldom shoot with the 85mm focal length because I am more into the 105mm family of lenses since it feels more natural to me for portraiture but this lens helped me warm up to the 85mm focal length for candid street portraiture because it is very compact and it is an awesome performer wide-open.

img_2435The bright maximum aperture of f/2 is very helpful for manual focusing even if you do not have a split screen installed on your camera so manual focusing is so easy! More

Fundamentals: Helicoids, etc. (3/3)

Now that we have talked about screws and lubrication, we can finally start with the actual skills for taking apart and re-assembling classic Nikkors. Most of the things that I will mention here are based on common sense. Please refer to my previous blog posts because there are many important things that are mentioned there that will not be repeated here.

I will update this blog post from time to time.

Workplace:

Be sure that you are working on a well ventilated place since the fumes are can potentially be toxic. Disassemble your lens on top of a soft, clean cloth such as a towel to prevent anything tiny such as screws to bounce off your table. That same towel will also prevent any serious damage to your glass when you have accidentally dropped one.

You would also like to buy those pill organisers from the pharmacy. They are cheap, small and perfectly suited for organising screws and parts as you disassemble your lens. What I simply do is I group all of the screws from the exterior to one section and all of the screws and fittings from the interior into another. This will make things a lot simpler for me when it’s time to re-assemble my lens. Finally, put your lubricants away from your work area so that you will not accidentally leave any part oily.

You may also want to put a ground on your table so that you discharge any static electricity. This will keep you from ruining any sensitive electronics found in modern lenses. More