Repair: Nikon S (Part 3)

Here we are at the last part of our Nikon S series. In part 1 and part 2, I showed you how to take this camera apart and put it back together and I will show you how to replace the shutter fabrics in this part. By this time, there are many Nikon S camera with bad shutter curtains that needs to be replaced. Age and wear have turned their shutters to brittle and useless strips of fabric so it’s only fitting that we do a proper shutter replacement so they will still function properly for the years to come. These cameras will keep on shooting by the day we have breath our last because they are simple and that’s just part of the appeal of using a classic camera. Despite its cheap reputation when it came out, there is nothing cheap about the Nikon S because it earned its name in the Korean War which was one of the harshest conflicts in modern times. Its rivals froze and stopped working while these kept shooting in the brutal Korean winter. The toughness of these cameras allow them to survive to this day in various states of decay but don’t worry, they can be restored so long as the they can be cleaned and maintained. This is the beauty of simplicity!

IMG_8649The best feeling you can get is when you have restored a camera back to working order. I sometimes feel like crying each time I see the first developed roll showing that the work I did is correct. Not only have I saved a camera from being a junk but I also saved a part of photographic history and keep it working for more decades to come. Needless to say, this camera may out-live us all if it was kept in perfect working order.

Before you think about doing this yourself, pause for a moment and think about what is involved in this operation:

  1. An adequate shutter tester that at least has 2 or 3 sensors.
  2. The correct type of ribbons.
  3. Replacement silk curtains.
  4. Solvents, alcohol and naphtha to be exact.
  5. Contact Cement.
  6. A multitude of tools like drivers and knives.
  7. A fine sewing kit.
  8. Properly ventilated working area.
  9. Fine watch oil, the best you can buy.
  10. Soldering bolt.

This sounds easy but when you factor-in the skill and experience needed, you will want to send this to a repairman because all of these cost money and time. Also worth noting are the health hazards associated with the use of these chemicals. I won’t be responsible for any harm to you and your property by the way so please do this at your own risk! It’s not an easy task to make things short. Only use this article for your entertainment or for your education so you will know if somebody did a botched job on your camera. A little bit of knowledge is a good thing but to know more is even better and you can only see it here in this blog because nobody else is showing this to you. If only the masters would do an article for these things but alas they’re all busy so you only have a tinker to show you how it’s done so take my articles with plenty of scepticism.

Before you begin doing anything, please read my article on Nicca 3S repair and see how I replaced the curtains because these 2 designs share a lot in common in terms of shutter design. Both cameras derive their shutters from the “Barnack” Leica cameras and they’re considered to be the most basic of focal-plane shutter designs. The techniques you’ll see there will be useful here and there are many things that I mentioned there that I’ll skip in this article because it’s redundant to repeat what you have outlined in-detail before. It will save you plenty of time and answer lots of questions if you read the Nicca 3S article along with this article as a supplement. Let’s start with the repair article.


Properly removing old material from your shutter is very important. You can’t just do it without any preparation and planning. It’s like remodelling a house, you must have the insight to plan and get as many information before you tear anything away so you won’t have a problem just waiting to happen later when it’s time to put things back. I will show you how to properly and carefully remove any worn fabric from your shutter assembly. This is a complicated process and should never be tackled by any beginner unless you’re in the process of learning and prepared for the potential loss of time and money. If your shutter curtains need to be replaced then please send it to the right people It has come to my knowledge that there are some repairmen claiming that they can repair stuff but the results are poor and worse, they cheat their customers out of their time and money. I will not refer you anybody but please do your own research first by asking people online. We didn’t have the internet back then and it’s amazing how you can get so much information these days so you should use that to your benefit.

IMG_7705The shutter on this camera won’t advance further than this due to a jam. A jam can come from several sources and one is bad or worn shutter ribbons or curtains. If your shutter won’t cock properly or smoothly, never force it or it will tear the whole shutter apart. It’s going to be a bigger head-ache when that happens because you may warp the delicate or smaller metal parts. Snapping the fabrics in the shutteris less of a problem but we don’t want that to happen either as you will soon see why

IMG_7704This is how much the shutters should overlap with each other. As you can see, the coated shutter has degraded to this. It is unclear to me if this is the laminated rubber material or a DIY coating applied by somebody else but I suspect it to be the latter. Laminated rubber is usually applied to the surface facing the lens and not the film, DIY coatings tend to be applied at the opposite side. I’ll expound on the DIY remedies on the next panel.

IMG_5495This is how it should be when it’s cocked. If your curtains look like then it is likely that it had been applied with latex, textile paint or other DIY tricks to remedy any burn holes in the shutter. This is only acceptable for spot-patching a hole or two in a curtain but it’s not a good solution because it will affect the travel of the shutter in higher speeds. Avoid this at all cost, the only way to remedy this is a shutter replacement. If you want to know how the curtains should look like when the shutter isn’t cocked, read the whole article to see how it should look for your reference.

IMG_7708Once you have studied it carefully, remove and replace the shutters one-at-a-time. I don’t remove both curtains at the same time if I can help it but there are cases when it had to be done. Doing it this way is easier for me because I have less things to guess later. This is just my method but do it which ever way makes more sense to you. Saturate the material with alcohol and then pick on the end wrapping the drum with a small screwdriver. This should be easy since the alcohol will make the cement soft after a couple of minutes. If it was applied with some DIY solution then one tell-tale sign will be the smell as you apply alcohol to it, it smelled like India ink on this one. If it smelled funky then it’s usually not a stock curtain that has been laminated with rubber at the factory.

IMG_7707Do your best so that you get that curtain off in 1 piece. This is very important because its dimensions have to match the replacement one as close as possible. This curtain is bad, it was nearly into 2 pieces. This can happen when the drums were tensed too much but the ribbons are usually the ones that would give because they’re thinner.

IMG_7725If the ribbon is also bad you can also remove it the same way you did with the curtain. It is important that you don’t apply too much alcohol and let it soak the good curtains or its ribbons, you want them to stay as dry as you can.

IMG_4162This particular camera had terrible curtains and corrosion so I thought that working on both curtains at the same time was the way to do it. The front curtain is shorter than the rear one as you can see from this picture.

IMG_4184This simple illustration shows the dimensions of both curtains in this camera. There are some cameras with very slight variations in the curtain length but they shouldn’t be too far from what you see here. The front one (先) is shorter and is 74.2mm long while both ribbons are 96mm long. The rear one (後) is 93mm long and the ribbons are 87mm long. Both curtains are 29.75mm wide. The dimensions of the ribbons matter just as much as the dimensions of the curtains. Where and how they were attached also matters because the drum has to pull it in a certain way to achieve proper timing and centrifugal force or the the way it was pulled will mean a lot specially at higher speeds so don’t forget to note where the shutters and ribbons were glued to their drums. I usually mark the glue marks with some scratched before they’re removed because they will be very handy later.

I hope that you took your notes and don’t rely on my measurements alone. As mentioned previously, there are small variations in the dimensions of the materials. While they are not too far from what I have they will still matter in some way. If your camera came with no shutters at all then you can probably use my measurements for your own because it’s still going to be better then nothing. Make sure to clean away any old glue or material so you will have a clean surface for the fresh cement to adhere to. Scrape it off using a small screw driver and the old material should easily chip away. You should not apply solvents that are too strong or they may harm the good fabric when it gets accidentally soaked.


Cut your fresh material using a new blade. I use a blade with a curved edge so the blade’s point will not catch and unfurl the fabric. I get my materials from Asahi Aki and they are close to the originals. The original curtains for the Nikon I are both made from silk with a certain weave called “habutae”. It’s the name of a place here in Japan where the industry mainly revolves around silk and textile manufacturing. The curtains for the Nikon M and the Nikon S are a bit different in the sense that only the opening curtain used the special type of silk that was laminated with rubber on one side to make it a little bit resistant to the sun. Some will have both curtains made with rubberized silk but that’s probably due to a replacement than a stock factory configuration. I will not claim to be an expert with this so don’t take my word for it but I do remember reading about this several times from no less than 2 sources.

Before you begin cutting anything, prepare a stright-edge and a cutting board to help you make sure that your curtains are as square as possible and by square I mean straight. It’s important that you get it as square as possible and one trick to help you do that is to tape the rubberized part to your cutting board/mat to make it stick so it won’t move around as you make your cut. Artist’s rubber cement also work if you have access to them, I like to use it because it can be neatly removed once you’re done.

IMG_4185Cut some fresh material and make sure that they are parallel at the long ends. It’s useless to have curtains that aren’t as close to being perfectly parallel as possible. It’ll work but it is pointless because we want everything to be as square and exact as possible.

IMG_4187Position one of the ribs and make sure that it’s parallel to the curtain’s short edge and put some glue to secure it. Apply the cement or glue to both surfaces so they will stick. This is going to depend on which type of cement you use but you will usually wait for some time for the glue to cure a bit before you fold your material.

IMG_4190When using contact cement, you should apply it to both mating surfaces using a flat tool to make sure that the application is thin. Let it dry for 1-2 minutes before you sandwich it with the metal rib. Contact cement binds best that way.

IMG_7716You can also use double-sided tape if you don’t want to create a mess. The tapes made in recent years are so sticky that they’re good enough for most people. I rarely do this but it is handy for those times when I get lazy.

IMG_4188The type of glue that I use takes a little bit of time to completely cure so I had to crimp it while waiting for the glue to cure. Make sure that the rib or cross bar is still parallel and if it’s not then you will have to do it all again.

IMG_4189Here’s how it looks like after the glue has cured half-way. It should still be pliable so you can wiggle the rib slightly if it had gone out of position.

IMG_4250Get yourself a really small needle and the finest thread you can buy and prepare to stitch your curtain. The thread has to be strong and not made of any organic material that will rot in the long run, nylon will be nice for this.

IMG_4251Stitch the material as close to the rib as you can but not exactly touching it or the tip will get dull or slip when it touches the metal rib. Your stitching should be fine and straight. It is also important that you keep the spacing even to the best of your abilities.

IMG_4252Leave some extra material at both ends of the thread. You will need this later. You don’t have to tell me but I know that my stitching sucks.

IMG_4254The extra length of thread is then cemented to the ends of the ribs. Originally, these loose ends would have been used to stitch the ribbons as well but I didn’t do this because this wasn’t necessary and it’s more work for me for very little benefit.

IMG_4261This should be how things should look like for you at this point. Trim the extra material dangling at the ends of the ribs and seal them with cement. In order for them not to fray I use a soldering iron to melt the ends while being careful not to melt the other parts. The ribbons have a tendency to do this so I always do it in order to prevent that in the future. This is the time to check for parallelism and if something is wrong, correct it while there is still time. Once you began attaching these to the camera it will be too late.

IMG_4262Trim the curtains and ribbons to their exact dimensions and if your ribbons look like the ones I have here then place them between the pages of a heavy book to straighten them. The edges that attach to the drum can also have their corners beveled slightly, doing this will make the curtain easier to position and wrap later when it’s time to glue them to the drums. The corners can sometimes get caught and that can be annoying.

IMG_8585Before replacing the shutters, it’s important that you put everything that’s required for it to cock. You can cock the shutter by turning the sprocket with your thumb but be careful that nothing should snag anything in the advance mechanism. Do it gently and if you felt a bit of resistance, stop and see if something is getting caught. In this picture, you can see that I have re-installed the rangefinder assembly and the focusing mechanism. You don’t need these to test the shutter. In fact, you don’t even need the gear train for film advance installed because the take-up spool has nothing to do with it for now. You need to be able to cock the shutter so you can gauge how the curtains should be laid. It’s not going to be a working unit at this point because the ribbons and curtains aren’t complete.

There’s no one correct sequence in fabricating new curtains, it will all depend on how it will be installed and how they were removed so I am just showing the basic concepts of how to fabricate new curtains and you decide the approach yourself. Shutter repair isn’t as straight-forward as many thing it should because you are dealing with many variables that change depending on your skills, situation and the camera.

Replacement (Style A):

This is probably the most difficult step in this whole article. I hate replacing the curtains because there is very little room for error. Any errors made in this step will haunt you in the years to come as you use a camera with imperfect curtains.

I will call this section Style A wherein you only need to replace the fabric of one curtain because its ribbons and the other curtains are still in reasonable shape. This is probably the easiest because you’ll only need to work on one curtain but the difficult part is trying not to damage the good curtain and ribbons while doing this. This step is advisable when you have a shutter where only one curtain has suffered severe burn-holes that needed to be replaced. There’s no easy way to fix this problem and avoid the DIY hacks.

IMG_7722You’ll also want to relax the shutter and tension them as you go to help you reinstall the replacement material. The one labeled B is for the opening curtain and A is for the rear curtain. Remove their locking screws and you can loosen the gears that lock the spindles for the spings. The spindles have a slot at the end so you can use a driver to turn them. It is important that you use a driver with the correct width or else you risk damaging them.

IMG_7740There are cases when you want to preserve the good curtain and only replace the worn one. Let’s pretend that this is the case for this camera.

IMG_7706Remove the old material from the worn curtain and be careful not to harm the good one. If the ribbons of the bad curtain are still OK, make sure that you don’t damage them, too.

The ribbons on this one still looks nice so I only removed the curtain by carefully slicing it open using a very sharp X-acto knife and picking away at the hardened cement. Clean the metal rib very well or scrape any old glue away with a knife.

IMG_7719Measure the old material and install the fresh replacement curtain. If I recall, I used the double-sided tape method in this one that’s why it looks so neat.

IMG_7723Position the new curtain and wrap it around its drum. You can tape a card at the end of the new curtain and then use then card to help you guide it into position. It can be hard to do this if you don’t use a card. You can also stick a tape to the drum and roll it instead if you think that’s going to make things easier for you.

IMG_7724Stitch the seam the best of your abilities. As evident in this picture, my sewing skills suck. You will also want to leave surplus material at both ends just like the one I made before in the previous section. In case I didn’t make it obvious, you should check if the curtain is parallel to the both ribs before you stitch it. This is the last chance for you to do it.

IMG_7726Carefully lay it out after stitching it and also don’t forget to cement the extra thread to the ribs so it has something to attach to.

IMG_7720You can then apply some cement on both the drum and the end of the new curtain. For this part, I usually won’t wait for the contact cement to dry a bit and I bind them as soon as possible so I will have some time to adjust the curtain. Beginners will want to use tape for this because it’s easy to get this part wrong and ruin everything. Alternatively, I also do it the other way around if I think that’s going to be better depending on the case and my mood. I would bind the curtain to the drum first and then adjust the other end to the rib and make my adjustments there. Try working on a junk camera and see what works better for you.

IMG_7741Make sure that everything is parallel and adjust the curtain if it isn’t. This will take you a bit of time and you may even reinstall the curtain a second time before you get it right. It is important that you get this done as perfect as possible because there’s no going back. It is also important that you check and see if the ribs are overlapping each other properly just like how it was before you removed the old curtain.

It will probably take me about an hour to do this process from the beginning up until it’s time to adjust the shutter speeds. This is probably the best way for those who are new to curtain replacements to learn the craft.

Replacement (Style B):

We will call this section Style B for convenience. This has to be done when the curtain or its ribbons are all bad and they need to be replaced as a single unit. Avoid working with both curtains at the same time if you are new to this because it might frustrate you when you can’t get it right. I do this style at times but I will avoid it as much as I can. This is not something that can be done in haste and you should take your time and do calculated or deliberate steps before the glue sets and make things impossible to adjust. You can make the cement set slower by using a retarder but that goes beyond the scope of this article. It will also depend on what kind of cement you use and experimenting is part of it. You can use tapes for initial positioning if you want and they’re handy for beginners before they get the confidence to apply cement and make things permanent.

IMG_7727Remove the old ribbon and replace them with new ones. Make them a little bit longer so you will have extra material later to make adjustments. I taped one end of the ribbon to the drum so I can make adjustments later. We will cement this later with contact cement when we are sure of our measurements.

IMG_7737Do that trick with the paper card again to help you guide the ribbons around their drum. The ribbons are a bit easier to guide around their drum because they’re thinner than the material used for the curtain which is made of silk that’s laminated with rubber.

IMG_7728Wrap the ribbons around the ends of the ribs and apply some cement to the parts where they fold. Don’t apply too much cement and make a mess.

IMG_7730Adjust and see if you got everything parallel and if the measurements are correct. Adjust the ribbons if you need to and cement them to permanently bind them when you think it is perfect.

IMG_7741Check if everything is parallel and also have a look if everything should be in their right position. This is your last chance to do it before you permanently fix your ribbons. Adjust it by adjusting both ribbon’s position. If it’s leaning towards on side, adjust the ribbon on that side and do it on the other one if that’s the one that needs to be adjusted. Make sure that the ribs are overlapping each other correctly just like how it was before you got rid of the old material.

IMG_7729Stitch this part on both ribbons to make everything permanent. Cut any loose material, it also important that you seal the ends of the ribbons with a soldering iron and cement its ends so they won’t hang out. Where you put the fold is important, check the old one and see if the folds were made in the inner surface or the outer one. I will admit that I rarely follow this guideline because I am lazy but this is the right way to do it.

If you made a mess then use some cotton swabs saturated with alcohol and wipe it away. It should easily come-off so long as the cement has not cured completely. Make sure that you don’t use too much alcohol and undo anything because that will weaken the cement and the bind will be weaker than optimum.

Bonus (Titanium Curtains):

Some people were curious as to how I replaced my shutter curtains with titanium ones from a Nikon F and how I did it. I will show you the process here and I hope that this will entertain you. This can be a straight-swap but do note that the foil curtains are wider by about 0.35mm on each end. If you position them properly, they shouldn’t touch anything and make it affect its travel so much as to make the shutter speeds inconsistent at higher speeds. Mine turned out to be OK and I enjoy using this camera a lot.

IMG_7755This is the only hint that will tell you that this Nikon S isn’t your usual Nikon S. Looking at the shutters from the mount or from behind will reveal the familiar wafer-patterned foil curtains of the Nikon F.

IMG_7709Harvest the titanium curtains from a junk camera and be careful not to wrinkle the foil. I am always very careful with this step because if I got it wrong then I just wasted my time and money. The neatness of the foil means everything in this operation.

IMG_7710Once the titanium curtains have been extracted, put them in a safe place so they will not be damaged. It’s also a nice idea to flatten them by sandwiching them between the pages of a heavy book. You will also want to wipe them clean using naphtha and lens tissue. Its ribbons need to be handles carefully as well because they can be damaged easily.

IMG_7711Install them just like how you would do it with fabric curtains but be extra careful since these will easily crumple because they’re essentially just thin metal foils.

IMG_7742Just look at how beautiful it is! Do you think it’s worth all the effort? This camera is now tougher than Dracula himself because it’s not afraid of the sun. See that arrow mark that I wrote using a white pencil? That’s where the shutters should stop when it’s not cocked.

I am not aware if this modification is popular or not but this should show you that this is possible and how it’s done. Some people claim that titanium shutters are noisier then the rubberized fabric ones but I didn’t find it any noisier than anything. The Canon stainless steel shutters are the noisiest of the lot as far as I can tell and the sound is annoying. The sound of this shutter is refined and sounds like a metallic “fwip” than the “clang” of the ones from Canon. This puts this camera in the league of the Nikon SP when it comes to it being resistant to the sun. The lighter material also requires less tension as far as I recall. I love this titanium Nikon S and I can say that it’s unique.

Adjusting (Shutter Speed):

Adjusting shutters isn’t easy and you will need special tools in order to do it properly. The tester that you use should at least have 2 separate sensors that can check both curtains as they open and close. If you don’t have it then don’t bother doing it unless you don’t care much for your shutter’s accuracy or a masochist because there’s no way for you to check the speeds of the curtains individually. You can’t do this by ear and the apps for iPhones are near-useless for this type of shutter.

The shutter mechanism is a near-identical copy of the Leica shutter so please read what I wrote for the Nicca 3S because I will not repeat what was outlined there in great detail. It is worth noting that while both shutters do share very similar schematics, the regulator is more advanced on the Nikon S and I will show you how to adjust it later.

IMG_7721Once the new curtains are ready, you can begin with adjusting the shutter speeds. Check and see if the glue has completely dried before you even begin this step, you can smell it and check for anything that smells like solvent. If it’s gone then it’s ready to go, I usually wait overnight for this. Don’t forget to apply oil to the spindles of the dums, the tear-drop cam’s base and the pivots of the pawls and other timing mechanisms for the shutter. Do not apply too much oil, it’s better to apply less than too much oil because any excess oil is going to cause a mess and spatter to the rangefinder optics because it’s close to the cams. Even if it didn’t spatter, oil will migrate and coat the inner parts of the camera. This is the reason why we sometimes see oil marks and fungi when we open old cameras. Some will even look a bit shiny because oil has evenly-coated the interior of the camera.

IMG_7722These are the things that you should adjust in order to get the timing right. The encircled screws are merely locks that you should remove in order for you to turn the gears. These gears secure the spindles of the drums’ springs. In order for you to adjust the spindle, the locking screw has to be removed and the gear loosened to allow the spindle to turn. They have a slot at the ends that strip easily so use the proper drivers for these. You can adjust the tension of the springs by turning the spindle. Once you want to secure the spindle, its gear has to be tightened so the spindle stays-put. To make the adjustments permanent, its screws have to be put back and engage the teeth of the gear to lock it. Working on B will affect 1st or opening curtain and working on A will affect the 2nd or closing curtain.

IMG_8586This is the position of the retarder’s lever when it’s set to T (time). It will not move until it has been disturbed, you will need to position it like this before you put the top panel and the shutter speed selector mechanism back into place.

IMG_8584This is the reason why you need to set it to T. If you didn’t do that then it’s going to harm the slow-speed lever and the slow speed selector cam if you try and force it back. Putting it to T will give it the required clearance so the cam will not snag. If it did, use a driver to pull the slow-speed lever so the slow-shutter speed cam will not touch it as you reinstall the top panel.

IMG_8582If I am not mistaken, this is the screw that loosens the slow-speed regulator cam. All you need to do is loosen this thing half-way and not totally remove this from the selector. You can remove it if you want but that won’t serve any purpose unless you want to clean this assembly thoroughly.

IMG_8581Leave this screw alone, this is what’s securing the selector dial to the whole assembly. It’s worth checking out for yourself because as I mentioned previously, I forgot which screw it is that you should remove but it’s most likely the one from the previous panel.

IMG_8583Once the set screw has been loosened, carefully adjust the slow-speed cam by using your fingernails to turn this part. Adjustments are to be made in small increments unless the whole mechanism was dismantled. Adjusting the slow-speed selector cam will adjust the slow-speed arm and the retarder lever’s distance to the rotating tear-drop cam. This will regulate how much the retarder arm is kicked and that will determine how much it will charge the slow govenor’s spring. The closer the slow-speed lever is to the tear-drop cam, the slower your speed will be and vice-versa. If you can’t get 1/8s working properly, the solution is to simply loosen the slow governor’s 2 screws and then nudge the givernor so it’s position is closer to the front of the camera. Tighten the screws and then do another round of shutter speed tests again. This should work and if it didn’t then your problem is not in this particular part of the camera. Be careful not to bend anything and make sure that the springs of the various levers’ tensions are correct. There’s no way for us to check it properly because we don’t know how much tension they should store without a repair manual so you’ll have to rely on your experience and common-sense.

That’s it for the shutter adjustments. Remember that the tension of the drums don’t mean much to a certain point because what is more important is the width of the slit between the curtains as they travel. There will be instances where loosening the tension will help get you faster speeds and tensioning it will give you slower speeds. Experience will teach you how and when to do this.


By the time you have reached this point you are almost done. Make sure that everything is working properly before you put all of the screws back. You can apply a small drop of lacquer or nail polish to the tips of the screws before you screw them in to prevent them from undoing themselves. The screws are an important part of thise camera’s character so you will want to protect them as much as possible.

IMG_8589Testing the advance is very important, use a dummy roll and see if it works smoothly. It’s going to be a shame if you have overhauled the camera to this point but the advance will not work flawlessly.

IMG_8588One of the leather patches at the front had to be replaced so I removed the old material by saturating the leather with solvent and I scraped any remaining old cement. This was also a good time to calibrate the rangefinder that’s why I didn’t reinstall the front bezel and the small part that covers the horizontal rangefinder adjuster near the cold shoe.

IMG_8644I scraped the old cement away after peeling the old leather off. Make sure that you get it as clean as possible before you replace it with new material, if you failed to remove some old cement then your new leather may form a lump where it’s at instead of being flat.

IMG_8596I took the camera out and shot a test roll because I was too excited to see how it’s going to perform. Sure, replacing the leather parts can wait but I can’t!

IMG_8593I got real leather replacements from Asahi Aki and they look close to the original ones. It is thin and pre-cut so all I had to do was to remove the adhesive tape backing from them and stick it using contact cement. The adhesive backing was necessary so that the leather will stay flat and not curl while it was being cut. It’s also important for keeping them neat or else the leather bits will be loose during fabrication.

IMG_8650What a lovely couple! Both cameras are considered to be the “first-born” in their families and both started the trend that all of the cameras that follow inherits. If you program, it’s similar to “class inheritance” and these cameras are the “base classes” and the others just inherit the properties of these and expand on them to make things possible. I think of the newer cameras as a Nikon F with AF and digital sensors, etc. Everything revolves around the lens mount and its general schematic won’t change much.

IMG_8648Here’s another Nikon S that I have, it’s for parts in case I will need them in the future. It’s going to ensure that I will at least have some parts left for me just in case.

After seeing what it takes to repair shutters, I hope that you now know how much work is involved and the materials aren’t cheap, too. If yours needs to be repaired, please send it to a real repairman and make sure that he’s competent. Doing this yourself will only be expensive in the long run and it doesn’t make any sense if you only wanted to repair one or two cameras. This work requires experience, time, skill and patience so what you are paying for repairs actually go to that. If somebody asks $400-500 for an overhaul then it’s a good price because I will never do everything I did in this series for that amount! If I’m doing this as my main job then I may even consider that amount. Overall, it took me 2 – 3 days of work and most of it was spent cleaning the camera. That’s just counting the time I spent manually and not including the time to wait for the glue to cure or the oil to settle. I always wait a few days before calibrating the shutter these days because the results are more consistent. It doesn’t differ much compared to adjusting it immediately after oiling it but that gives me peace-of-mind that I require. I am sure some professionals will argue with me on this and some will agree, this is just a matter of experience and preference.

That’s it for this series so I hope that you enjoyed it. Did you learn anything from this? If you did then please share this to your friends so that they will also be entertained, I will appreciate it if you did that. This series got a bit too long for me so I am thankful that it’s done. I don’t have much time these days and I am sleeping earlier these days (10PM) so I can wake up early and send my kid to school. Having mentioned that, I will write longer articles about once or twice a month and then post shorter ones in-between. Thank you again and see you in the next article. Ric.

Help Support this Blog:

Maintaining this blog requires money to operate. If you think that this site has helped you or you want to show your support by helping with the upkeep of this site, you can simple make a small donation to my account ( Money is not my prime motivation for this blog and I believe that I have enough to run this but you can help me make this site (and the companion facebook page) grow.

Buy me a roll of film or a burger?

Thank you very much for your continued support!


Helping support this site will ensure that this will be kept going as long as I have the time and energy for this. I would appreciate it if you just leave out your name or details like your country and other information so that the donations will totally be anonymous it is at all possible. This is a labor of love and I intend to keep it that way for as long as I can. Ric.

1 Comment (+add yours?)

  1. Trackback: Repair: Nikon S (Part 2) | Richard Haw's Nikon Maintenance Site

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