Repair: Nikkor-P.C 10.5cm f/2.5

Hello, everybody! It is Father’s Day today so I will greet all of the fathers who are reading my blog today a very happy Father’s Day! I was admitted to the hospital today because of my blood pressure but I am OK now but the most important thing is I spent time with my family. I spend so much time at work and maintaining this blog that I often times find I’m neglecting my family. Speaking of fathers, I am going to introduce you to a really special father in this article because this one started a long line of excellent lenses!


Today, we are going to talk about the father of this venerable lens family that we started talking about in the previous articles, the Nikkor-P.C 10.5cm f/2.5! This debuted around late 1953 and was made to fill-in the gap between 85mm and 135mm. Some people find the focal length odd but this makes a lot of sense if you are carrying a 50mm in your bag because 85mm just isn’t too different from 50mm and 135mm may be too long for many people. The f/2.5 maximum aperture may also be unusual for people who aren’t familiar with Nikon’s history, the f/2.5 maximum aperture was common and was also used on the W-Nikkor 3.5cm f/2.5. Back in the day, Nikon was in a contest with everyone else so even a small lead counts (f/2.5 vs f/2.8) so that made this the fastest lens in the 100mm class.

IMG_3765This lens looks gorgeous with all those shiny chromed parts. You will sure to get plenty of stares when you shoot with this lens! I know some people who treat cameras as jewelry. I know it sounds weird but who are we to tell them otherwise? Focusing this lens can be a bit clumsy because of the long focus throw. You can also accidentally knock your focus a bit off when you change its aperture and I find this very annoying. Thankfully, I usually set my aperture before I focus my lens so this saves me a lot of trouble.

This lens was designed by the legendary Wakimoto Zenji, a giant in the Japanese optical industry and is the predecessor of the famous Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 series of lenses. The design was very long-lived and it pretty much stayed that way until the early 1970s when it was given an update by the disciple of Wakimoto Zenji.

sonnarGaussHere is a simple comparison between the original 5-in-3 formula the later 5-in-4 formula. While the formula shown at the left is for the Auto-Nikkor-P 105mm f/2.5 for the F-mount, the difference is negligible since the rear element was only reduced by about 1mm just to make clearance for the Nikon F’s reflex mirror so you can think of it as the same formula used on this lens. This is just for the sake of illustration to give you a better idea.

This design can be thought of as an enlarged Nikkor-P.C 8.5cm f/2, another lens designed by Wakimoto Zenji. The original design served as a template for this lens and it worked pretty well! I shoot with both lenses and I can say that the characteristics of both lenses are similar in many ways because of the shared “Sonnar-type” lineage. Both lenses were derived from the earlier Nikkor-S.C 5cm f/1.5 or the Nikkor-S.C 5cm f/1.4.

IMG_3766This lens was sold as junk because of some coating damage by a previous fungus attack. I also noticed that it will not focus all-the-way to infinity and the shop wasn’t aware of this. I love the beautiful engraved details on this lens which is very helpful. Minimum focus is around 1.2m which is adequate for a lens of this class.

This lens comes in 2 versions and the lens shown in this article is the latter type. It is just updated with a different way of putting on the lens shade where the original one has two small lugs to secure the hood and this one has none, resulting in a smoother front barrel that will not snag on anything accidentally. The differences are insignificant that you can almost treat the 2 versions as identical in many ways. There’s also a Leica L39 version as well and the only difference is the lens mount.

IMG_4257Here it is compared to the F-mount version. They are different in many ways but you can consider them to be similar since the optical design wasn’t changed much. Some people claim that the rangefinder version is better because the rear is closer to the film plane so artifacts like chromatic aberration are near-absent compared to the F-mount version of this lens. I can confirm this myself and you can check my samples for reference.

IMG_4256Here it is with the rest of the family! From the first one on the left from 1953 all the way to the last one to the right which ended production around the new millennium. If you’re a new Nikon photographer and you don’t know what this lens family is about then I will advise you to read my articles and get to know these better! They are all magnificent.

IMG_3807It looks great with my Nikon S3. The 35mm, 50mm and 105mm is the trinity for the Nikon S3 because it has frame lines for these 3 focal lengths. Very convenient! It’s heavy so it is going to make your setup front-heavy so the best way to handle your setup is to hold it by the neck of the lens. You don’t want to let the lens dangle in front of your camera without any support as this will wear the mount of the camera.

Compared to the other telephoto lenses that Nikon made for their rangefinder cameras, this lens is relatively new that it only came in the “new” look of chrome and black. Older telephoto lenses like the Nikkor-P.C 8.5cm f/2 and Nikkor-Q.C 13.5cm f/3.5 first came in all-chrome and then the two-tone “panda” version like we see here.

Let’s now examine how this lens performs. Knowing how a lens performs is key to using it properly. You should know its weaknesses so you can work around them and use all of the lens’ strengths to help you make a beautiful photo. The series of photos that I took in the section below were shot from f/2.5, f/4 and f/5.6 respectively. I omitted f/2.8 because it is too similar to f/2.5.

(Click to enlarge)

Vignetting can be terrible wide-open and it can reach to more than 2-stops-worth of light at the extreme corners. It gets much better by f/4 but only begins to disappear by f/5.6. It’s very heavy and is probably the biggest weakness of this lens. Now, this lens was designed as a general-purpose lens but it has great utility for portraiture so you can use this “flaw” to help give your portrait a unique look and help direct the eyes of your viewers closer to the center of the frame where you will most likely position your subject. The 2nd set will help show you just how smooth the bokeh of this lens is, this is one of the defining traits of this lens. Wide-open, the background turns into a beautiful wash of colors, bokeh balls look nice and clean without any ugly outlines. The background remains smooth despite stopping the lens down but it gets less blurry due to the deeper DOF, the bokeh balls still look circular because the iris isn’t angular. This plays a big role in the look of the bokeh. I consider this lens to have one of the best bokeh characteristics amongst all of the lenses that Nikon has made for the S-mount and “exquisite” is the only word that can describe it.

(Click to enlarge)

Here are some pictures that I took with the subjects at closer ranges. The sharpness and contrast the center looks pretty good wide-open and the colors look very natural. Bokeh seems pretty smooth but you will see that it has the tendency to render some linear and long details at the background in a muddy way. It may just be an unfortunate combo in the background of the 4th set because the bokeh looks gorgeous otherwise. Vignetting is going to make your corners look dark. People won’t notice it much as long as you do not have the sky or any solid-colored background in the scene. Like I said, you can use this to your advantage. I recall that people used to add this in the darkroom way into the 1980s. Resolution looks fine wide-open and stopping it down will make it better but not by a lot because it’s already pretty good at f/2.5. There’s a very slight hint of chromatic aberration in the form of some purple fringing at bright highlights but you won’t see it unless you go out of your way to look for it. The field seems flatter-than-usual for a tele lens but I’m not sure about this, it’s just my impression. The technical quality of the pictures look great at f/5.6, it’s so sharp, clear and the contrast looks great. This is the aperture that you’ll want to use when sharpness and all those things matter to the shot.

(Click to enlarge)

The lens renders great for subjects that are further into the scene. Longer lenses should have great performance when shot at farther distances for obvious reasons. You’ll only see slight spherical aberration at really bright parts of the scene and that’s it. Again, the vignetting will be your biggest concern here.

Let’s now see some real-life pictures, shooting mundane objects for tests won’t really give you a good idea on how a lens really performs. My reviews aren’t technical at all and I’ll always base everything on my impressions of the lens using real photos and experiences. The following pictures were all taken wide-open using my old Sony a7. I took these wide-open because that’s the best aperture to examine this lens’ character.

(Click to enlarge)

Please pardon me because these shots are a bit blurry since they were all taken at slower speeds such as 1/60s because f/2.5 isn’t really fast-enough for this kind of pictures and my subjects are all moving. See how natural the pictures look and they definitely have an old or vintage look to them. Despite them being slightly-blurry you will see that they’re sharp and if my subjects only stayed still then these would be better photos.

DSC01618I love the mood of the pictures that I get with this lens, the rendering is very natural and the low elements count of just 5 helps achieve this. It’s not overly-corrected and all of its flaws work together beautifully to give you a unique-looking picture.

DSC01650I love the colors that I get from this lens. The tones are subtle despite the contrast being a bit on the high side for a lens from this era, this is a very good derivative of the Sonnar.

Let’s now see some pictures that I took with film. It’s important to see the performance of this lens when shot using film because this lens was calculated exclusively for use with it so this is the only way we can see what the designers were thinking when they made this some 65 years ago.

(click to enlarge)

Here are some sample shots that I did as soon as I finished overhauling this lens. The pics have no creative value since I usually shoot a roll to test the lens and see if I got the focus coupled properly to the rangefinder and to see how this lens performs. See how smooth the bokeh is? You can also see that the lens is indeed sharp wide-open and it will improve a lot when you stop it down to f/4. You can also see that large polygonal blob when shot against the sun, this has more to do with the lens’ outdated coating than the design of the optics. A flaw set by the limitations of it’s time.

(click to enlarge)

Now for some colour photographs. The results are full of character as you can see in the transition from what’s in focus to what’s out of focus, very organic and natural. The look is outdated but in a very good way.

(Click to enlarge)

These 2 pictures were shot at around f/8 or so. At this aperture the lens exhibits very nice resolution and sharpness across most of the frame. The colors look nice and neutral but a bit on the cool-side because this lens was calculated for monochrome film. The bokeh has a smooth character despite being shot at this aperture.

fh000034I shot this at around f/8 at 1/8s, dragging the shutter to give me that nice moton blur. The corners look sharp as you can see from the cartoon character’s eyes and the details on it. The tiny fishes also looks sharp. Contrast could have been better in my opinion but this is something that’s typical of this lens because it’s not over-corrected for that.

(Click to enlarge)

Here are 2 shots that I took wide-open. I think I shot these at around 1/60s or so. The lens is on the heavy-side due to the brass barrel and that added stability to my setup so that I can use slower speeds than what I am comfortable with an SLR. A rangefinder camera is more stable because it doesn’t have a flapping mirror that shake your setup a bit.

So, do you think that you have enough information about this lens to make a conclusion? Well, let me help you with that. Buy this lens if you like this focal length and you like to shoot portraits, it’s easy to adapt these now with all the available adapters so mounting it to a digital camera is not an issue. For Nikon rangefinder camera users, this is one of the key lenses that you should have and it shouldn’t even occur to you if you should buy one or not. Leica shooters will also enjoy this lens but the focal length may be odd for Leica, I would advice that you use an external finder when using these with Barnacks. For those rare instances when you would want to mount this to a Zeiss Ikon Contax, make sure you get one with “C” engraved on the barrel because those are calibrated for the Contax. This is a tele lens and accurate focusing is a must so get the right type for your lens mount. It’s a very lovely lens in both form and performance, you can get one for less than $250 or so if you’re lucky. These lenses stay relevant up to this day because of their utility, they’re so practical and simple that you can’t get any more basic than this. Unlike electronic lenses, these will still function well beyond our own lifetimes when taken cared of properly and this is one of the charms of using legacy lenses.


Before We Begin:

f this is the first attempt at opening a lens then I suggest that you read my previous posts regarding screws & driversgrease and other things. Please also read what I wrote about the tools that you will need in order to fix your Nikkors.

I highly suggest that you read these primers before you begin (for beginners):

Reading these primers should lessen the chance of ruining your lens if you are a novice. Before opening up any lens, always look for other people who have done so in Youtube or the internet. Information is scarce, vague and scattered (that is why I started this) but you can still find some information if you search carefully.

I highly recommend that you also read my working with helicoids article because this is very important and getting it wrong can ruin your day. If I can force you to read this, I would. It is that important!

For more advanced topics, you can read my fungus removal post as a start. This post has a lot of useful information here and there and it will be beneficial for you to read this.

About Me:

I’m a photographer based in Tokyo who scours the junk section of the camera shops here on a regular basis. I started this hobby of fixing old lenses and cameras because I kept on getting scammed before when I purchase online. This turned out to be a blessing because I now buy junk lenses for a fraction of the price and then restore them to add to my now-growing collection. This allowed me to buy gear that were otherwise off-limits to me if I were to get them in better condition.

I was a scale modeller who built models for other collectors for some time then I got my education as a dental prosthodontist (but didn’t pursue dentistry). Growing up in a watch repair shop gave me the useful skills that would help me in this craft and fixing my cars also contributed some know-how.

Having mentioned the above, I will tell you now that I am not a professional repairman! Please take what I do with a grain of salt and I’ll never be held responsible for anything wrong that will happen to you and your project. I hope that the pros will guide and teach us but nobody is writing anything.

As my library of repair notes grew, I get requests from people with similar interests and from professionals who needed some notes just in case. I’m now sharing my library with you for your entertainment and reference. I hope that you find my work useful.

Disassembly (Focusing Unit):

First, we would like to separate the objective from the focusing unit to protect it from any accidents. Rangefinder lenses are simpler and so you can just remove it with your bare-hands. It was engineered this way by Nikon so you can change the focusing unit to mount a Contax, Leica or even the rare F-mount version to it! Nikon sold the F-mount barrels as a separate unit, this much is confirmed by old catalogs but the Contax and Leica fit were definitely sold from the factory as-is. Interesting, huh?

IMG_3767The objective can be easily removed by unscrewing it from the focusing unit. It may take some effort because it may be glued or old lubricant may have bonded it together.

IMG_3768Be careful not to damage or lose this brass shim. It is used as a washer and also to help it focus to infinity. These are pretty much unique to each lens and were selected from a box of spares by the person who’s in-charge of calibrating it’s focus.

IMG_3769Remember that this lens was sold as junk because it will not focus all the way to infinity? Well, this is the cause! I do not know how this thing got inside but it was preventing this lens from collapsing all the way. Don’t ask me where this came from, I want to know,too.

IMG_3770See, now it collapses all the way! I can really make a good living repairing lenses. Maybe I should do it in my retirement? It is a very time-consuming endeavor that’s all.

IMG_3771Remove the focusing ring by unscrewing the 3 screws that secure it to the inner helicoid.

IMG_3772Take note of the position of the screws before you dismantle this lens any further. Taking notes is essential but people just don’t listen and message me when things go wrong.

IMG_3773This screw prevents the helicoids from rotating outside of the lens’ focus range. Carefully remove this as these can be delicate because the neck of the screw is thin!

IMG_3776Again, take notes and pictures before you dismantle! This shows the focusing cam’s inner mechanism. The screw slides within the slot as you focus the lens in and out. The cam on the other side pushes on a lever in the camera that operates the rangefinder. This is how the rangefinder shows you what’s in focus.

IMG_3777This is how much the helicoid will extend before the screw is removed. I took this so I’ll know later if I reassembled it correctly or not. Do these now before you go any further!

IMG_3778Separate the helicoids and never forget to mark where they separated! If you forgot to do this then you will spend plenty of time guessing where these should mate later since you will have to mate them in the same position as where they separated.

IMG_3779This decorative sleeve can be removed after getting rid of the 3 screws holding it down. I believe that this is overkill since the scale can be engraved into the main barrel anyway. I almost always find oil underneath this so maybe this was implemented to somehow help with keeping oil from seeping out of the lens barrel, who knows.

IMG_3781Let’s go to the rear this time. Remove this set screw so you can remove the retainer ring. It is there to secure the ring from accidentally being moved.

IMG_3782The retention ring can be unscrewed by using a lens spanner. Look at the picture and see that there is a groove on the thread. This is where the set screw used to be. Remember to rotate it exactly to how it was before you remove it before you put the set screw back.

IMG_3783Once the ring is gone, you can take out the focusing cam mechanism with your fingers.

IMG_3784To remove the cam’s collar, unscrew this carefully and be sure not to lose it. This screw is in charge of keeping the cam in-place as well as keeping everything together.

IMG_3785Once the screw is gone, everything comes apart. That spring is responsible for pushing it out so it comes into contact with the rangefinder lever all the time.

IMG_3786You can remove the collar on the mount if you wish but it won’t help with anything with regards to repairing this lens apart from removing old junk trapped underneath it.

IMG_3787This is how it comes off. Again, there is no real benefit in removing this.

IMG_3788If your lens doesn’t sit properly to the mount on the body then you can use your hands or a pair of pliers wrapped in rubber to bend these a bit. This is a delicate operation and I’ll advise you not to do this unless you know what you are doing because the problem may not be on the lens but on the flanges on the camera’s mount itself. Just forget about it!

I doubt that many people will have problems with the focusing unit of this lens but there will be people who will want to take it apart due to grease migration or a dry helicoid or worse, a seized helicoid. I make it a habit to do this for all of my lenses because I just do not trust what’s there and I do intend to keep these things forever.

The helicoids have been thoroughly cleaned with naphtha using a toothbrush. I cleaned and brushed it with a stiff pig-hair wheel brush on a Dremel and then wiped some more until the tissue wipes clear of anything. I am very meticulous when it comes to this step because I do not want old grease to contaminate the new one. Use a light grease for this because the internal helicoid on the camera body will add some resistance and they will all add-up. Don’t apply too much grease or you will end up with an oily lens.

The cam at the rear and the spring under it were lightly lubricated with the same grease used on the helicoids. This will prevent it from squeaking. If you find rust on the spring, just clean it off using a fine steel wool or WD40 and be sure to clean it up thoroughly and leave no residues before lubricating it lightly and putting it back to its assembly.

Be careful with the Dremel! Only use a very soft organic brush to polish anything related to the threads in your helicoids! A steady hand is needed whether you use it with a drill stand hold it with your hands.

Disassembly (Objective):

The objective is ‘ familiar to me since I work with this lens family regularly. It is so simple and the elements are huge so handling them is easier. There is nothing I’ll need to warn you about but just follow the fundamentals, take notes and be careful!

IMG_3789The front elements cell can be removed by unscrewing it from the rest of the objective. It neatly comes off as an assembly as you can see here. Be careful not to scratch the back of this thing as it is exposed and can come in contact with anything inside the casing.

IMG_3790The front (1st) element can be removed by unscrewing the front barrel. This may fall all the way to the ground if you are not careful so do this while it is facing the ceiling.

IMG_3791The front element can now be extracted using a lens sucker.

IMG_3805The 2nd group consisting of the 2nd,3rd and 4th elements (a triplet) comes off when you unscrew the collar securing it on the other end of this assembly. Both ends are accessible without removing it from the case so you can clean it just like this unless there’s fungus or serious “schneideritis” on the sides of this group which very rarely happens.

IMG_3806I’m removing this just in case somebody is curious. These are usually snuggly-fit so don’t not force it or you will risk damaging the glass.

IMG_3792The rear and last element (5th) can be accessed and cleaned thoroughly by removing this collar. You may have to place a drop of alcohol to soften the lacquer that Nikon applied to these things to secure them. This rarely happens on really old lenses but who knows?

IMG_3793You can extract it by using a lens sucker. At this point, I will place a dot with a Sharpie to help me identify which side should be facing forward. The curvature of this element is a bit shallow and it can be difficult to tell which side convex or not for some people. I have worked on this lens family long enough to know that this is concave on the surface that’s facing the camera. Just do this as a precaution, a simple permanent marker works well.

That’s it for the elements. People who just want to remove fungus or dirt will only take it apart up to this point. If you are hardcore, continue to the next section!

Dismantling (Iris Assembly):

The iris assembly on rangefinder lenses aren’t as delicate as the ones found on automatic lenses (SLR’s mostly) so having a bit of oil in them is tolerable. I will clean this one just to show you how if it bothers you. The oil will evaporate eventually and it will settle on the surface of the elements and ruin the coating. Of course, this is bad but it’s your call if you want to spend this much effort on cleaning the iris assembly or not. Better having an oily iris then having one named “Humpty-dumpty” since you can’t put it back together again.

IMG_3794Begin by removing this screw but mark the position of the aperture ring first.

IMG_3795The aperture ring is only being held by 3 small set screws. See the dimple on the collar in the picture? That is where the set screws sink into. You must put this ring back together again the same way as how it was so the mark we made in the previous step will help.

IMG_3796Now, remove this brass ring to remove the rotator cup that is securing the iris blades or leaf. You may need a sharp pick for this and it may take you some time to get it out. Once this is gone, everything can fall off so be careful!

IMG_3797If you haven’t unscrewed this then do it now!

IMG_3798Carefully remove the cup with your fingers.

IMG_3800The collar can now be removed by unscrewing it off. Do note the original position of this thing before you remove it. Some people count how many turns it takes to unscrew it but I use measurements and orientation instead. Do whichever you are comfortable with.

IMG_3799See how intricate the iris is? Just seeing this is enough to scare me just thinking about the time and effort it takes to put these things back together. They are more difficult than the ones found o most SLR lenses because there are more of them and they are all overlaying with each other. The good thing is they are usually heavier so they stay will put.

IMG_3801Drop the iris blades into a soft and clean lens tissue and be careful not to warp them. The iris blades are very delicate and a damaged one will result in an irregular-shaped iris or worse, an iris that doesn’t close or open properly!

IMG_3802Carefully wipe the iris blades with a lint-free tissue such as a lens tissue and use naphtha to dissolve the lubricant and help soften any rust that has formed. This one is easy since the blades don’t look symmetrical. The trick is to have the pin on the rounder end of the blade connect to the hole on the housing. The rounder end makes clearance for the iris to move. Putting it back the wrong way will result in an iris that will not close properly. You will know it when you see it.

IMG_3803After all the hard work, here it is! There are many techniques to do this, mine is to slide a blade under the one on top and then push it into place by using a pair of tweezers. Only handle the pins and never the blades itself!

IMG_3804Sorry for the missed-focus but I’m sure that you can see that the iris mechanism is now properly re-assembled. Here is an article on how to work with preset-type irises and there are videos there, too. Check the link out for more information.

I hope that you got yours back together after this. Don’t worry, it will take a few attempts before you learn how to do this. If you really want to practice how to do this then do it on a cheap Russian rangefinder lens sold as junk for parts. No need to ruin a good lens just for the sake of learning a new skill. Nikkors are family heirlooms!


As far as lenses for the Nikon rangefinder system goes, this is still pretty standard and it has a lot in common with the other telephoto lenses in terms of engineering so I was not even worried about this thing when I worked on mine. In fact, this took me less time to overhaul than expected because there aren’t many parts to take care of. Of course, I am saying this from the point of an experienced Nikkor repair hobbyist. I put the emphasis on Nikkor because I do not trust myself with lenses from another brand.

IMG_4348This is one that comes in metric! Sold this to somebody else but I wish I didn’t because its rarer. I rarely sell my lenses and if I do, I usually sell them to people I know. I may buy it back one day, nobody can tell.

This is a simple lens for somebody who is willing to study the Nikon rangefinder lenses. I would not advise that you ruin one as an experiment because these aren’t cheap like the majority of the F-mount lenses due to their scarcity and age so only attempt doing this if you trust your hands enough to work on delicate objects like these.

The only troublesome part of this lens is the iris and I doubt many people will even try to attempt taking it apart but if ever you have the need to then this is how to properly do it. Some people will simply saturate the iris with naphtha and wipe-off the gunk but that is not the proper way to do it and the problem will soon come back. I’ll admit that I also do it sometimes on very rare occasions where I can’t open the iris because it’s stuck or some hack glued the parts so nobody can open it up again. It’s best to leave it like that than to subject the lens to repair trauma.

Here we are again at the end of another article. I hope that you liked this one and if you benefitted from this, don’t be shy and donate some to my blog. I’m considering updating this account again and it will be very helpful if you can help me with the upkeep so that I can keep this thing running and also keep the files on another server to help with all that bandwidth because my blog is obviously very picture-heavy. Thank you guys again, Ric.

Help Support this Blog:

Maintaining this blog requires money to operate. If you think that this site has helped you or you want to show your support by helping with the upkeep of this site, you can simple make a small donation to my account ( Money is not my prime motivation for this blog and I believe that I have enough to run this but you can help me make this site (and the companion facebook page) grow.

Helping support this site will ensure that this will be kept going as long as I have the time and energy for this. I would appreciate it if you just leave out your name or details like your country and other information so that the donations will totally be anonymous it is at all possible. This is a labor of love and I intend to keep it that way for as long as I can. Ric.


7 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Trackback: Repair: RF-Nikkor-P.C 8.5cm f/2 | Richard Haw's Classic Nikkor Maintenance Site
  2. Trackback: Articles Index | Richard Haw's Classic Nikkor Maintenance Site
  3. Trackback: Repair: Preset Iris Reassembly | Richard Haw's Nikon Maintenance Site
  4. Trackback: World of F-mount Nikkors (2/3) | Richard Haw's Nikon Maintenance Site
  5. Trackback: Repair: Nikkor 105mm f/2.5 Ai-S | Richard Haw's Nikon Maintenance Site
  6. Trackback: Repair: Nikkor-Q.C 13.5cm f3.5 RF | Richard Haw's Nikon Maintenance Site
  7. Trackback: Shopping: Fujiya Camera (Nakano) | Richard Haw's Nikon Maintenance Site

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s

%d bloggers like this: