The PN-11 extension tube is a companion accessory to the amazing, popular and very long-lived Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 Ai-S lens. This lens was introduced in the early ’80s but it’s still in production up to this day. Having said that, the PN-11 is obviously in-production as well. You have to buy the PN-11 separately which doesn’t make sense since it is so vital to the Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8 Ai-S’s performance and it is needed for the lens to achieve a 1:1 (almost) reproductive ratio. Why Nikon sold these separately, I don’t know.
Hello, everybody! Sorry for the irregular blog updates as I am very busy this month. We are scheduled to have a lens teardown this time but I am too busy to write a full teardown so I am going to continue a previous series that I started many months ago. This is supposed to be just a supplement of the first part so I will keep this short.
Introduction:
The Zoom-Nikkor 43-86mm f/3.5lens that I discussed previously is an important lens in the photography world because it was the first affordable (normal range) zoom lens for the 35mm format. As I mentioned in the previous part, the lens had some quirks that needed to be ironed out and some of it was corrected in this version with the addition of a modern lens coating – the Zoom-Nikkor C 43-86mm f/3.5 lens.
The lens balances wonderfully on the Nikon D750. I had to convert this lens to Ai before I attach this to the Nikon D750 or else the lens will damage the camera’s Ai coupling tab. More
Hello, everybody! I haven’t updated anything for a weeks now and it looks like it’s going to be that way for the rest of this month. I am currently very busy with visiting family and a friend who also happens to be my dog food supplier. I will resume our normal schedule on November when things slow down a bit, until then please enjoy this little article.
Introduction:
Some earlier Nikkors have a thin aperture enough ring that doesn’t even touch the aperture coupling tab of modern Nikon cameras. Converting these to Ai is much easier compared to the ones that have a thicker aperture ring wherein you need to grind off any material that is in the way of the tab.
Today, I will show you how I make these lenses work with any Ai interface so that you can enjoy these old lenses with your modern Nikon cameras and get aperture priority metering with it.
The Nikkor-H 50mm f/2 is one such lens. This is an easy mod since the tab needed for this is not as big as the ones needed for slower lenses. More
Hello, everybody! I am not a watch aficionado, I am sure that many of you aren’t, too. Many of us know the names Seiko, Citizen, Bulova and Rado but there’s only one name that stands-out from them all – Rolex. It is a brand bring into mind tradition, quality and luxury. Even young children know about the name. There are a few names in this world that has such an impact. Today, I will introduce to you once such name, it’s not going to be as powerful as the name Rolex for the common man but it certainly has a strong presence in the hearts of many photographers – the Noct.
Introduction:
The legendary Noct-Nikkor 58mm f/1.2 Ai-S was sold from 1981 to 1998. It’s a legendary lens that many people dream of shooting with. Most of that has to do with the “religion” that was built around it. It’s an updated lens, its predecessor, the Noct-Nikkor 58mm f/1.2 Ai needed an Ai-S update so this lens came into existence. Both are special lenses made for astrophotography and for shooting at lowlight. They were optimized for the dark and their names made it obvious.
When paired with a Nikon Df you’re able to shoot in really-dark places like a candle-lit room with ease. What’s so special about this is it renders point-lights at corners beautifully, with minimal coma. Coma will make your point-lights at the corners look smeared, the only way to avoid this is to stop the iris down. You’ll lose plenty of light by doing this so this lens was designed to give you less of it wide-open. It also has some of the smoothest bokeh quality you’ll ever see from a Nikkor of its time and the corner performance is pretty good, too. It was a game-changer when it came it and it instantly acquired a legendary-status.
Hello, friends! This week was just a pain for me – literally! I had a new gout attack and my left foot was super painful! I haven’t gotten anything like this for 2 or so years now and as my doctor told me, it might be an indication that my uric acid level is going down. My foot is feeling much better now and I should be OK by Monday. The pain associated with gout is just as painful as manually focusing a fast prime on modern DSLRs like the Nikon Df and I will show you how I made my experience a lot better in this blog post, making me hate this camera a little less.
Introduction:
Today, I am going to show you how I replaced the original matte screen that came with my Nikon Df with the FM3A’s K3 screen for better focus confirmation with faster manual focus lenses (f/2 and faster)!
This is all we need for this project. Be sure to work in a clean place! More
Hello, everybody! I was at a Samba festival and it was a good change in my daily routine. I am often busy with work that I neglect so many things and this gave me a little bit of time to charge my mental energy. We sometimes need a change in perspective when in comes to life, doing the same routine day-in-day-out can really burn you out. You won’t notice it until it’s too late so it’s nice to take a break occasionally. While we’re on the topic of changing perspectives, I’d like to introduce to you a Nikkor that does the same thing, I love this lens as it helps me see things through an altered perspective. Read the whole article to find out what this is.
Introduction:
Let me introduce to you the PC-Nikkor 35mm f/3.5! This is both unusual and historically important. I say unusual because this is a specialist Nikkor that was specifically designed for architectural photography so it has gimmicks to help it do that. This amazing lens was also ground-breaking when it came out because it was the first lens for the 35mm format that can give you any control over your picture’s perspective by modifying the vanishing point of your frame and hence – “PC” (for Perspective Control). It’s the first of its kind and it helped take the small format into the realm of technical photography where it was once dominated by larger formats such as 120mm.
Such a lovely lens. This thing is heavy so do not let its small size fool you. It is a gem of a lens that was made with precision in mind. The lens is dirty in this picture but you are going to see it cleaned before your very eyes. It has plenty of knobs and rings to help you operate the lens and that’s part of the appeal of using this thing.
Hello, everybody. It’s a rainy day today here in Tokyo, it’s actually very bad timing since it is the annual Asakusa Samba Carnival today! I was hoping for good weather last night but it seems that nature listens to nobody. Oh,well…maybe it’s going to be sunny next time.
Introduction:
Today, we are going to talk about how I fixed the locking mechanism of my Nikon FE’s film door. My Nikon FE is supposed to be sold but I accidentally soiled the camera so it’s going to stay with me for now. I also fixed some other things on this camera and I will show you what I did next time. This is going to be a series like the one I did for my Nikon F.
Here is the Nikon FE along with the Nikon F. Notice how small it is but I assure you that this camera is very capable. In fact, I would say that it has most of what the legendary Nikon F3 has when it comes to features. More
Hello, everybody! I was out looking for something cheap to eat as usual. I’m budget-conscious when it comes to things outside of my camera hobby and one of the things that I try to be cheap with is food. I frequent Indian restaurants since they offer good value and cheap calories. I could ask for a roti refill or another serving of rice, for free. This means I could satisfy my caloric needs in a meal, that should last me the next day. While we’re on the topic of being cheap, I will introduce to you a lens that offers great value. Despite being an inexpensive item it’s able to give you adequate performance. Find out more about it in this article.
Introduction:
The Nikkor-Q 135mm f/3.5Auto was made from 1959 to 1979, it was made in several versions. The most common version is cheap since it is one of Nikon’s most-produced lenses. Many people disregard it today due to its modest specs and abundance. Despite that, many people don’t know that it used to be Nikon’s best moderate-telephoto lens for the F-mount for a short period and it has a couple of things that makes it appealing.
The Nikkor-Q 13.5cm f/3.5 Auto preceded it and it’s one of the original lenses for the Nikon F when it debuted. The one here is the late-production model, it’s the most-common variant and it’s the lens that we’ll showcase here. It’s an underdog, many compare it to the Nikkor-Q 135mm f/2.8 Auto, an incredible lens but it costed a lot more in those days so it’s not fair. This has its place in the Nikon catalog, it offered a cheaper, lighter alternative to the bigger, pricier NIkkor-Q 135mm f/2.8 Auto.
Hello, everybody! We are supposed to have the usual lens teardown today but I am too lazy and tired today to prepare the pictures and commentaries so I will just write a short entry this time around. I am also very busy in our studio because my cute assistant is currently working off-site for a couple of months. She should be back by the end of this month.
Introduction:
When I still had the D7200, I was always straining my eyes at the tiny DX viewfinder every time I used a manual focus lens with it. I focus using the focusing scale so I generally get a nice and focused picture when I am using the lens stopped-down. Shooting the lens at it’s biggest aperture is another story and I had to find a better solution for this.
The first solution that I thought about was using focusing screens! You can buy one for any camera or ask a shop to trim one for you but I am cheap so I simply opted to DIY the screen myself to save some money. I ended up saving enough money that if ever I failed at this, I would have enough money to attempt 3 more times! More
Hello, my dear readers. I just unloaded plenty of digital gear yesterday morning. Shooting film and using analog equipment has been so much fun for me that I have relegated all of my digital equipment for low-light and indoor shooting exclusively or for really important events where there is no room for mistakes (paid stuff). Chances are if you are reading and following my blog then you are already at the same point in your photography adventure as me. Do not believe it when they say that shooting film is cheaper then shooting digital, we will talk about it in a future post because there is just so much cow dung being posted on the internet by film snobs.
Help support this site by donating to richardHaw888@gmail.com over at Paypal! If you want to buy me a beer or a roll of film then that would be great,too!
The lens balances wonderfully on the Nikon D750. I had to convert this lens to Ai before I attach this to the Nikon D750 or else the lens will damage the camera’s Ai coupling tab. 
The Nikkor-H 50mm f/2 is one such lens. This is an easy mod since the tab needed for this is not as big as the ones needed for slower lenses. 
This is all we need for this project. Be sure to work in a clean place! 
Here is the Nikon FE along with the Nikon F. Notice how small it is but I assure you that this camera is very capable. In fact, I would say that it has most of what the legendary Nikon F3 has when it comes to features.
The first solution that I thought about was using focusing screens! You can buy one for any camera or ask a shop to trim one for you but I am cheap so I simply opted to DIY the screen myself to save some money. I ended up saving enough money that if ever I failed at this, I would have enough money to attempt 3 more times! 
Richard Haw's Classic Nikon Repair and Review 