Camera and Lens Repair Essentials (Tools)

23 Dec 2015 251 Comments

by richardhaw in nikon,lens repair,lens maintenance,nikon repair,, Nikon,museum,classic lenses,, Uncategorized Tags: camera repair tools, lens care, lens maintenance, lens repair, lens repair tools, lens restoration, manual lens repair, Nikon, nikon lens repair, nikon lens screws, nikon screws

Just like most bobbies, you’ll require certain tools to repair or maintain the equipment that you use. I love repairing broken photography equipment, it helps save the planet and I save a lot of money along the way.

I’ll outline to you all the essential tools that you need for repairing lenses so that you don’t waste your time and most importantly, money on gear. Many people will give you the wrong advice on the internet, many from ignorant or arrogant personalities. This has resulted in many people, including me to botch my repairs when I was starting up. I’m neither ignorant nor arrogant, I’m a generous person with experiences to share so you won’t end up being a camera butcher.

Most of the tools that you’ll need can be bought in regular hardware stores. However, some are specialized and can only be bought in specialty stores or online. These are good investments, buy the best that you can afford but do not go overboard and buy something that is insanely expensive but of very limited use.

Luckily, camera repair has plenty in common with watch repair, both deal with precise, small hand-held tools. Going to the watch repair department of your DIY shop can also be fruitful. I grew up in a watchmaking family so the tools and skills are all familiar to me.

I highly recommend that you follow my advice as close as you possibly can because tools like screw drivers seem to be common across the board but in reality they come in different types. Using the wrong driver type can result in a stripped screw head.

I’ll never be held responsible for any broken equipment, tools, gear or your health, please use your common sense and follow safety procedures.

Screwdrivers and Screws:

These are the most-basic of tools but their essential. Never buy cheap ones, I made the mistake a long time ago and bought cheap-Chinese ones, they are flimsy and may harm your gear! I will show you which ones to buy.

First, you’ll need a set of precision screwdrivers. These things are great for smaller screws. Be sure that you only get JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) when repairing Japanese equipment. Hobby shops with a mini 4X4 or radio control section should have these and chances are they will be JIS. Japanese brands are also more likely to be JIS (like Tamiya). Never buy cheap-Chinese precision screwdrivers, you’ll use these for a long time, the damage caused by using the wrong screwdriver can be irreversible. If JIS isn’t available, get crosspoint drivers. The Philips drivers look similar but are different, never use Philips drivers with your Japanese equipment. The best brand I know is VESSEL, they’re not expensive and they’re well-made.

You will also need precision micro screwdrivers. These micro screwdrivers are essential for screw heads that are too-small for regular drivers. Always remember to “use the right tools for the right job”. These are VESSEL-brand drivers. You definitely will want to stick to a brand so I recommend that you stick with VESSEL since they’re reliable, inexpensive and of high quality.

For bigger screws, use regular drivers. Be sure to buy 2 types for each screw type: a long-shafted ones and short shafted ones. The 2 types of screws that you’ll encounter in camera or lenses are crosspoint and flat. They are also called plus (+) and minus (-) drivers. Again, and I can never say this enough: stick with VESSEL. The most useful size for plus drivers is 0. The 00 can also be useful from time-to-time but 0 is what I use the most. These are used for bigger screws like that ones in the bayonet mount. The longer ones are used for larger screws that are too-tight, using the shorter general-purpose ones will just strip the heads even if you use the correct size. The long shaft will give you the leverage that you need, a fatter handle will help give you more torque, too. Camera manufacturers love thread lock (Loctite) a lot and they use this thing copiously. Also, since the lenses that you’ll repair will likely be old, the screw might just “fuse” with the thread due to corrosion, grime and other nasty things and extra torque is required. Read my article on working with bayonet screws to know more about how to handle stubborn screws.

If you think that all flat drivers are the same then think again, the best ones have parallel edges, they will not mark the slots because of this. They aren’t cheap so many people grind the usual ones to make them. I don’t have time for this so I spend around $14 for one of these. They’re a good investment, it is important to buy the best ones that you can afford while making sure the ones that you bought aren’t over-priced.

You’ll want to search the screws section of your DIY shop for a collection of screws. I’m not familiar with other Japanese brands but the most common sizes that you’ll find in Nikons and Nikkors should be 2mm (M2) and 1.4mm (M1.4), you’ll occasionally find the odd 1.7mm (M1.7) and other sizes, too. If I didn’t make it obvious, the measurements I just mentioned pertain to their diameter and not length, so an M2 screw is 2mm across.

Buy lengths from 2mm to 4mm. The screws found in the bayonet mount are most likely 2mmX4mm (M2X4). The smaller ones used in the lens are either 1.4mmX2mm (M1.4X2) or the 1.4mmX3mm (M1.4X3). There’ll be rare cases when you’ll encounter the odd 1.7mm (M1.7) screws, these screws are used internally in parts where extra-strength is required like in the helicoid keys or to mount the optical assemblies.

Another important thing to take note is to only buy flat head screws with a very low head since you don’t want the heads to protrude in most cases.

Set screws (grub screws) are those tiny screws that don’t have a flared head. They’re special and should be handled with care. They’re also very brittle as they can break under stress. These cannot be bought easily and can only be bought from special manufacturers.

Specialized Tools:

Repairing cameras or lenses require special tools just like how watch repair requires special gadgets. Most can be made from scrap metal, some will cost you a bit because they’re specialized and the market for them is small. Don’t buy the cheap-Chinese ones from the internet, they have flooded the market recently and they will do more harm than good.

The workman’s compass is used by other trades such as leather-working or engineering. Good ones are expensive, I buy the German ones as they’re the best. Be sure to buy very good ones, cheap ones may slip and cause damage. Make sure that the ones you’ll buy isn’t going to slip and has a good tension locking screw. They’re used to twist open retainers. Anything that has holes or slots at opposite ends indicate that this tool is needed to open it. I usually modify these by bending the tips in-or-out to fit certain tasks. The time may also be rounded with a file to prevent damage. I own several of these, some are long while some are short.

The lens opener or lens spanner is seldom used but is so essential that you will want to buy a good set. The workman’s compass has the same general function but there will be times when a lens opener is the correct tool for a job. The cheap ones can be scary since the locking screws holding the points can be flimsy. If the part that you need to access is inside the barrel or is too narrow for this tool then the workman’s compass is the right tool, not this. I see many cheap-Chinese ones, they’re flimsy and they bend. Avoid them, get the best ones that you can buy like the one you see here. If not, make sure it has a rectangular cross-bar and not circular ones. The circular ones will not hold their shape when you bend them and will skew under pressure.

These are called friction wrenches. These are basically just rubber stoppers that come in different diameters with a hollow core. These are used to twist open the metal or plastic front rings holding the front element with friction and torque. While I got these as a set and I strongly recommend that you do the same, you can also fashion some yourself by using the rubber stoppers that hardware stores sell to put on the feet or bases of chairs or metal pipes. Just make sure that the middle part will never touch anything.

This is a lens sucker. It sucks the glass while you remove or place them into their housings. Some elements that are positioned too-deep into the barrel like the case of longer lenses will require these to access and put them back. Make sure that the rubber part that come in contact with the glass is always clean. This is also a common watch repair tool to hold the crystal.

Buy the best blower that you can afford, you’ll want a strong burst of air to clean any fibers from the surface of your lens or to remove junk and bits of metal from whatever that you are milling.

This is a pipe-key. It’s used to turn rings that have slots in them, they’re the best tool for the job but it can be hard to source pipes with the correct size. I usually mill these specially for expensive equipment where I don’t want to leave any marks. It’s important that you make one from brass or any metal that’s strong-enough but isn’t too-hard as to mar the surface of your gear. It is a highly-specialized tool and is usually only used for a certain part of the equipment you’re repairing, it usually can’t be used with other things.

This is an alternative to a pipe-key. This can be easily made and can be used again with anything so long as they will fit. Read this article on how to make a pipe key alternative to begin making one.

A lens vise is used to repair a dented filter ring. Read this article on how to use a lens vise to see how dented front rings are repaired. Alternatively, you can modify a pair of pliers and weld several sections of pipes to achieve the same effect but that’s a bit more risky. I also use a male-female wooden die and whack the broken part with a mallet to bring the dent back-to-shape.

This is DIY lens spanner. It is easily made using scrap materials and can be handy if you need remove a retainer ring seated deep-inside something and is out-of-reach using a compass or you don’t want to scratch anything inside by using a metal tool. Read more about this tool here in this article on how to make a DIY lens spanner!

This tool is very important for those who wish to repair earlier Nikons. This A/R ring opener is needed to remove the lock for the shutter button guard. I made an article on how to create and use an A/R ring opener.

Only purchase grease that’s made specially for lenses, using the wrong type will result in the grease migrating to parts of the lens that don’t need it and may stiffen or run on extreme temperatures. I use 2 types of grease, one for general use like this S10 grease and another one that’s a bit thicker if I want the helicoids to be stiffer. I consider this S10 grease to be a general-purpose grease so I use this for the majority of my lenses.

Always remember that you should never ever mix grease of different types together as this will change the chemistry of the grease. You’ll need to clean any surface from the old grease and other impurities before you apply your new grease. The camera manufacturers use different kinds of lubricants for different parts of the lens but I use the same type of grease that I applied to the helicoids as my general lubricant so that there will never be a chance of anything else mixing with the helicoid grease. Remember never to apply too much grease or your lens will be oily again in no-time. Another rule I follow is to lubricate anything that has metal-to-metal contact and move regularly like the aperture ring, springs, bushings and helicoid keys.

You’ll only need shutter testers when you want to repair cameras. Be sure to buy ones that has at least two sensors at each edge of the frame, one for the opening curtain and another for the closing curtain. Those with one single sensor is only good for lens-shutters or leaf shutters. The one you see in my video only has a single sensor, I use another one with multiple sensors and I cannot recommend the ones like you see in my video. Never ever buy those testers that base their readings on audio, they’re mostly a waste of money. If anybody told you that they can judge a shutter’s timing by-ear, they must be high with something. That’s BS, I want to know what pipe they’re smoking.

These are the more-common tools that I use for camera and lens repair. It’s important to use the correct tool for the job to prevent any accidents. Your collection of specialized tools will grow as you get more involved with this hobby.

Other Tools:

Here are some more equipment that will be useful for your hobby. They are important and you can source them from just about anywhere.

Lens tissue is valuable for cleaning a lot of things. Remember never to use the same tissue that you used to wipe metal surfaces to wipe anything that is glass. Another is to never wipe your glass using a dry tissue. While these are soft, they may be abrasive enough if dry. Also blow it with your blower before wiping. Lens tissue is lint-free, you can also use a soft rag, the same ones used for wiping lenses but those aren’t disposable.

You will need several types of tweezers and you will also want to buy ones that aren’t made of metal. I have several pairs of plastic ones, the good ones aren’t cheap but they’re perfect for handling delicate parts such as the iris.

You’ll need several types of solvents, both polar and non-polar ones. This is a very controversial topic because some people don’t like the idea of using a petrol-based solvent naphtha. I use them because some stuff will only react to a non-polar agent. Just be careful and you should be OK. Alcohol is really good for cleaning things and I have a vat filled with alcohol so I can soak a part that’s dirty to disinfect it. Be careful when handling these, you should never use these with delicate parts such as cemented groups. Always have adequate ventilation when using solvents or you’ll get high.

Acetone is invaluable as a solvent, what you see here is definitely too much for hobby-use but it’s industrial-grade and I cannot find a smaller container.

Shellac is great for use as adhesive when bonding leatherette and other soft materials like cloth or felt. I also use it as a sealant and securing parts such as screws. It’s inexpensive compared to Loctite but it isn’t as strong. One way to thicken it is to burn a small amount of it in a metal container or just let the solvent evaporate for some time. You can also apply several coats if you need the shellac to be thin-enough to be brushed to a surface to ensure an even-coat. Old cameras use this to bond curtains to the shutter, it’s tough so long as you know how to use this properly. Like contact cement it is best applied to both sides and cured for a short time until sticky before application.

A Dremel and its stand (Dremel Workstation) is handy if you need to drill or grind things. I use it as my grinder when I need to mill new parts or modify existing parts. Sometimes, you’ll need to use this to drill a hole in a stripped screw’s head and use a screw extractor to safely remove a stripped screw. It is worth mentioning that you’ll need special bits for different jobs.

You will also need generic tin containers to put your cleaning fluids or just to organize parts so that they do not get lost.

This is a micro screw-extractor for removing stripped screws. Only buy the type that has a grooved point that bites-into the hole drilled into a stripped screw. Never ever buy any gimmicky screw-extractors such as Moody Tools’ screw extractors, they’re expensive and useless. Only buy the ones that look and function the same as the one in the picture above. This is important.

Here are the other tools that I use:

Drill bits for drilling or for using with hand taps and the screw extractors.

Hand taps for fixing worn threads or for making new screw holes.

Denatured alcohol for bathing or dipping your metal or plastic parts prior to final wiping to remove lighter fluid residue, lacquer, oil and grime.

Nail polish remover/Acetone is important for softening the seals that the Japanese manufacturers use.

Q-tips for obvious reasons.

Hydrogen Peroxide & Ammonia for killing fungus. Mix in equal parts. You can also add a strong vinegar to make it more potent. Read my post on how to remove fungus from your lens to find out more about this.

Cerium Oxide for polishing scratched glass surfaces.

Lens cloth for doing the final wiping of the glass before reinstalling them.

LED lamp to inspect if you left any fibers in the glass and also to illuminate your work area.

Files and sandpaper for parts modifications and fabrication.

Rubber gloves to help you grip things and protect your hands.

Rubber mallet, because sometimes some things just need a good whack!

Rubber bottle opener, they look like oil filter wrenches but made of some kind of hard rubber. They’re great for unscrewing stubborn lens barrels.

Multi-meter to diagnose electronics.

Hobby knife for cutting things.

Contact cement for gluing leatherette and rubber parts.

Nail polish for securing parts. Lacquer paint is also great for this.

Micro-meter for precise measurements.

That’s all that I can think for now. There are more things that I use but they aren’t what I would call essential. To be honest, most of the things that you see listed here are optional and are only used for certain situations. You’re not going to be needing most of them every time but it’s good to have them handy just-in-case.

Conclusion:

These are just some of the things that I commonly use for repairing broken lenses and cameras. If you’ve been repairing things then chances are you’re already familiar with many of the things that I listed or you may have them in your kit now as you read this. If you don’t, just buy or make them as you move-forward into this hobby and you’ll acquire a collection of tools in no time. Ric.

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